Stylist’s junior beauty writer Ava Welsing-Kitcher restaurant-hops her way across Denmark’s calm, cool capital
There’s a January blizzard swarming around Copenhagen, and although I’m just a couple of inches away from the thickly falling snow, I’m tucked inside a warm, orange cocoon. At least that’s what it feels like, thanks to the iPad mini that’s become my trusty companion over the weekend.
They’re available in every citizenM hotel, from Times Square to Taipei, and control everything from how you’re woken up (by a slow, soothing countdown from 100 or the sound of an elephant stampede – take your pick) to the room’s temperature and mood lighting. I spend a solid 10 minutes playing with the colour wheel, deciding whether I want to take a rain shower in tones of icy turquoise, salmon pink or deep amber. Given the weather, I go with warming amber.
CitizenM’s latest addition to their portfolio looks out across Rådhuspladsen, a historic square in the heart of Copenhagen that’s no more than 15 minutes from anywhere you’d want to go. While a buffet breakfast (boasting the crispiest bacon ever) and room service are available, there’s a twist on the traditional hotel restaurant. Instead, there’s an open, imaginatively decorated space for socialising wrapped around the building, with a bar and snack kitchen open all day.
It’s also easy to venture into the city’s unbelievable cuisine scene, with the most notable restaurants dotted within walking distance. Admiralgade 26 serves up tender fried pollock and roe with a squid ink risotto so delicious, it might have ruined fish for me forever. A short walk in the other direction leads you to Café Atelier September, where you can’t miss their highly Instagrammed chive and lemon avocado on rye toast.
The climax of my foodie tour has to be Winterspring dessert bar. An oasis even within the general calm of the city, its pale sage walls and perfectly imperfect crockery create a tranquil atmosphere, while a freezer displays their signature ice cream flavours, from apple sorbet to chamomile vanilla.
I slide into a booth and spend two happy hours sampling different homemade cloudy apple juices (the lemon-verbena strikes that dream balance of rich and slightly sour), before moving on to desserts. The vanilla ice cream with caramelized pear and walnuts gets my vote, but the salted chocolate sorbet with pickled cherries and rosehip comes a close second – the -3°C weather definitely hasn’t quelled my appetite for icy treats.
Although it’s closed until February, I end my trip with a visit to Tivoli Gardens, the second- oldest operating amusement park in the world. Its twinkling fairy lights, wooden rollercoasters and pirate ship masts taunt me from behind the iron gates, so I distract myself with an elaborate smørrebrød sandwich from Tivoli’s Food Hall, which is open year-round.
Yes, all I did in Copenhagen was eat my way around it, then sleep it off in my perfectly lit king-size bed. And I have no regrets at all.
Rooms at citizenM Rådhuspladsen start from £85 per night
Images: citizenM, writer’s own